SUNNAN VINDAR
South Winds Botanicals
South Winds Botanicals Natural Organics
All of South Winds Botanicals are made from Natural or Organic Certified materials. It is the Biologist Birgir Thordarson who is the professional originator and designer of the products, with of course the help of many other traditional herbalists, homeopaths, medical doctors, massage therapists, nutritionists and alternative healers. Birgir has been employed for many years in he field of Public Health and Environmental Issues. He has degrees in Horticulture, Environmental Planning and has studied Phytotheraphie & Medical Aromatheraphy with Florial in
South Winds Botanicals have crafted various products in the field of healing and relaxing herbal massage oils under the trade mark "Flora Organica" along with various massage products for Spa’s, i.e. the well known NordicaSpa. Among South Winds products we can name the "Professional Luxe Massage Blend“, SPA- creams and lotion, healing herbal & mountain geothermal clay mixture as wella as various Medical Herbal tea’s, Herbal Energy and cleansing mixtures some of which are available here at this web site.
What is the best colon cleansing system?
Why is it important to keep your colon clean?
Do I need a colon cleanse?
Many people ask these questions. Here are some answers.
Keeping your body clean is important and most people would agree with that much. However, when it comes to the colon cleanliness may questions arise.
Cleansing our bodies must start from the inside. We are living in a world that full of toxic substances. Our bodies absorb these toxins through air, food, water and skin. There are systems of elimination in our bodies, and the bowels are one of those systems.
Toxins in the bowels refer to waste matter that has gathered in the bowels [colon] and is ready for expulsion. When this natural expulsion does not occur, due to constipation that stems from wrong dietary habits, the waste matter will accumulate in the bowels [colon] and eventually leak back into the bloodstream. Then these toxins in the blood have to be cleaned by the liver. When the liver gets overwhelmed it will pass the burden onto the kidney and so on. Now you see how it starts in the colon.
Toxins affect our overall health, energy, ability to heal, makes us ill, fat, congested, constipated, depressed, uncomfortable in our bodies, powerless and vulnerable.
Toxins are not the only bad guys most people have to deal with. Parasites are other unwelcomed guests that steal the nutrients from your body and also produce toxins of their own.
Toxins and parasites that accumulate in your colon may promote the development of various severe diseases, even colon cancer.
There are lots of methods for colon cleansing, but more and more people today choose herbal colon cleansing, because of the gentle nature of the most herbal products and techniques of herbal colon cleansing.
Natural colon cleansing is the most popular method today. It involves the use of some effective herbs such as: cascara sagrada, ginger, licorice, fennel, aloe vera, anise and cayenne pepper, either in the form of pills or as teas. Many cleansing programs also include psyllium seed husks and bentonite.
Natural colon cleansing is a great way to help restore the health of the vital organs of your digestive system, such as the small intestine, large intestine, stomach, liver, and gallbladder.
Natural herbal colon cleansers make the process of colon detoxification very smooth and effective. Our ancestors have been using various traditional methods of colon cleansing for centuries and they have been using herbs for that.
Natural colon cleansing is a simple procedure, but it can require anywhere from a few days to a month of consuming plenty of vegetables and fruits and the use of natural cleansing herbs and supplements.
Natural colon cleansing is impossible without healthy eating, which means avoiding caffeine, sugar, white flour, aspartame, microwave-cooked food, hydrogenated fats and deep fried foods. Eat foods high in fiber, both soluble and insoluble like beans, whole grains and green leafy vegetables.
Who needs colon cleansing? I recommend it to most of my clients. It is especially important for those who suffer from constipation or a low number of bowel movements. One will be prone to disease if he/she does not have at least one bowel movement per day.
Constipation is not the only symptom that indicates you might benefit from a natural colon cleanse. Over the time the hard material made of a mixture of mucous and fecal matter start to cover the inside walls of the colon and intestines. A natural colon cleanse will help eliminate this old layer of fecal matter, and open your intestinal walls to better nutrient absorption.
Now that you know that natural herbal colon cleanse is beneficial for most people, I want to warn you that not all colon cleansing products are the same.
There are many products out there that are not effective, because of the wrong herbal composition, the potency of the herbs used, the amount of right ingredients in the formula and other flaw. Choosing the right supplement is very important. Be sure that your colon cleansing package contains a few different bottles with herbal mixtures, fibers and probiotics. If you are confused about what kind of colon cleanse system works best for you, learn more about it here.
Learn more about natural health life style and ask questions that interest you.
Natalia Belokonova- certified natural health professional.
FAQ´s on Organics
| What is "organic"? "Organic" refers to how a plant is raised and how it is processed. It means that the plant was grown without the use of synthetic chemicals, fertilizers, or pesticides. It also means that it contains no genetically modified organisms ("GMOs") - or plants, animals, and organisms whose genetic makeup has been changed or engineered by biotechnology. It also means that processes used are gentler on the environment. What does "certified organic" mean? It means that an independent accredited agency has verified that a product meets government standards. The organic seal certifying that a product is "organic" means that a product contains at least 95 percent organic ingredients. A product labeled "100% organic" means it contains only organically produced ingredients. For more information visit the at www.tun.is & www.nature.is What is "natural"? In general, "natural" ingredients refer to plant extracts and other ingredients from nature that do not have harsh synthetic substances added to them, that are minimally processed, and have not been significantly altered from their original states. The Natural Products Association, an industry group with a voluntary membership, has developed its own standards and certification requirements for what constitutes a "natural" product. One of their requirements is that personal care products labeled or branded "natural" must be made with at least 95% all-natural ingredients. Products meet the NPA's specifications and pass their certification process may carry their seal. For more information visit their site at www.naturalproductsassoc.org . Why use organic and natural products? Organic and natural products offer purity, quality, and effectiveness. They do not contain potentially harmful chemicals like pesticides and herbicides. They are created using minimal production processes that do not use petroleum waxes, fillers and harsh synthetic chemicals found in many conventional products. Are all your products organic or natural? Yes. Our trusted brands provide certified organic products or have products that use organic and natural ingredients. All ingredients for each product are clearly listed on our website, as we require full ingredient listings from manufacturers. We use only raw materials that meet our strict requirements and guidelines. We do not offer products with harsh synthetic preservatives, artificial colors or fragrances. The products are paraben-free, free of petrochemicals, fillers, and chemical additives found in many conventional products. Also, our products are never tested on animals. Are the products you offer "hypoallergenic"? There is currently no federal standard or definition for the term "hypoallergenic." However, generally it means that a product is found to pose a low potential to irritate or cause allergic reactions. Most of our products uses organic and natural, plant-based ingredients that are gentle and are well-tolerated by those with sensitive skin. However, some products do contain essential oils that may cause irritation in some people. If you have known allergies, read the ingredient lists that are provided with each product description in order to avoid a potential reaction. How will using organic and natural products make a difference? Results vary from person to person, and are based on one's health, skin condition, as well as diet and lifestyle. Organic product manufacturers believe that with regular and routine product use, consumers will get benefits of high quality skin care while cutting down the unknown, cumulative effects of synthetic chemicals found in many traditional products. | |
Ingredienst to Avoid in your Cosmetics
Top 10 Ingredients to Avoid
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Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) & Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) - These are agents that make products sudsy and are commonly used in soaps, shampoos, body washes, bubble baths and dish liquids for their foaming properties. Tests by consumer and environmental groups have found that these chemicals are sometimes contaminated with carcinogen 1,4 dioxane. These chemicals also cause eye irritations, pose allergy risks and can remain stored in the body for long periods of time.
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Polyethelene Glycol or (PEGs) - These are cleansers that are used to thicken products and are used to dissolve grease and oil. They dehydrate skin by stripping it of natural oils and are potentially carcinogenic.
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Propylene Glycol (petroleum derived) - This colorless chemical is derived from natural gas and is used as a solvent and wetting agent. It is an active component in antifreeze and is found in many consumer products such as deodorant, mouthwash, toothpaste and hair products. This chemical causes irritation, is toxic, and potentially carcinogenic.
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Parabens (methylparabens, polyparabens - paraben family) - Parabens are a group of preservatives that prevent the growth of microbes and extend product shelf-life. They are linked to allergies, and are also suspected of hormone-disrupting properties. (Studies have shown parabens mimic estrogen.) They are commonly found in personal care products containing significant amounts of water such as shampoos, conditioners, lotions, and facial cleansers.
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Petroleum Based Ingredients - Petro-chemicals are derived from crude oil and petroleum products that include mineral oil. These ingredients are widely used in personal care products for their emollient qualities. However, they can cause photosensitivity and skin problems by creating an impenetrable chemical barrier that prevents skin from "breathing." This leads to chapping and dry skin.
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Artificial Colors (labeled as FD&C or D&C) - Synthetic colors are commonly used in personal care products to mask ingredients and give the product a more appealing appearance. However, artificial colors have been linked to skin allergies and sensitivities.
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Artificial Fragrances - Artificial fragrances can be a combination of unknown chemicals and it is often difficult to determine what is in a product "fragrance" or if the ingredients used are safe. That's because companies don't have to tell consumers what is in a "fragrance." This information is considered proprietary. Many synthetic fragrances contain phthalates which are toxic to the reproductive system and have been linked to health problems such as allergies, birth defects, cancer, and respiratory disorders.
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Urea/Formaldehydes - Imidazolidinyl Urea and Diazolidinyl Urea are commonly used preservatives-second only to parabens. These are chemicals release formaldehyde, which has been linked to chronic skin allergies (contact dermatitis), cancer and weakened immune systems.
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Triethanolamine (TEA) - These are chemicals used in cosmetics to adjust PH levels, and are often the base for cleansers. Problems associated with TEA include allergic reactions and dryness of skin and hair. They can also be toxic to persons exposed over long periods of time.
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Pthalates-A group of industrial chemicals used to make plastics more flexible and resilient. They are found in products such as detergents, hairspray, shampoo, moisturizers and nail polish. These chemicals have been found to be hormone-disrupting, and are linked to cancer and damage to reproductive organs.
SOURCES:
1. The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics: Chemicals of Concern;
2. Environmental Working Group: Body Burden;
3. Skin Deep Research - Cosmetic Safety Database: "Why This Matters;"
4. Organic Consumers Association: "Ten Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients to Avoid."
WATER from a Bottle
Mineral, Spring, Purified, Artesian - What is the difference?
Not all waters are the same and health conscious consumers are often confused by the extensive range of labels and brands on the market.
Generally speaking most consumers incorrectly assume that a bottle of purified water from a major soft drinks company contains spring water sourced from a far off protected mountain valley. When they later discover that it is actually nothing more than filtered municipal water they are often disappointed and understandably so.
The classification of different types of water and the terminology used to describe them also varies from country to country. For example: a product classed as a Natural Mineral Water in Europe would actually be labelled as a Natural Spring Water in North America.
The terminologies used below apply to North America and we will shortly be adding a separate link to labelling terms used in other important markets for Icelandic Glacial such as the UK, France & Holland.
Spring Water
Widely recognized & acknowledged as the product of choice for discerning consumers, Natural Spring Water, as it is more correctly referred to derives from an underground formation from which water flows naturally to the surface of the earth. Spring water must be collected only at the spring or through a borehole tapping the underground formation feeding the spring. Spring water collected with the use of an external force must be from the same underground stratum as the spring and must have all the physical properties before treatment and be of the same composition and quality as the water that flows naturally to the surface of the earth.
Purified Water
Water that has been processed by means of distillation, deionization, reverse osmosis or any other recognized method meeting the definition of purified water in the United States Pharmacopoeia may be labelled as purified bottled water. Other suitable product names for bottled water treated by one of the above processes may include distilled water if it is produced by distillation, deionized water if it produced through deionization or reverse osmosis water if the process used is reverse osmosis. Alternatively, "--------Drinking water" can be used with the blank filled in by one of the terms described above. eg, "Purified drinking water" or "Distilled drinking water".
Mineral Water
Spring water containing not less than 250 parts per million total dissolved solids may be labeled as mineral water. Mineral water is distinguished from other types of bottled water by its constant level and relative proportions of mineral and trace elements at the point of emergence from the source. No minerals can be added to this product.
Artesian Water
Bottled water from a well or spring that taps a confined aquifer - defined as a water bearing underground layer of rock or sand - in which the water level stands above the top of the aquifer.
Well Water
Bottled water from a hole that has been bored, drilled or otherwise constructed in the ground which taps a water aquifer.
Sparkling Bottled Water
Water that after treatment or possible replacement with carbon dioxide, contains the same amount of carbon dioxide that it had as it emerged from the source. Sparkling bottled waters may be labeled as Sparkling Drinking Water, Sparkling Spring Water or Sparkling Mineral Water.
From Icelandic Glacial Water; http://www.icelandicglacial.com/news/IG-news/
Aloe Be Thy Name…...
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This month, New Directions unveiled a breakthrough – the 100% certified organic Aloe Vera Gel. It seemed only natural to work on an organic version of this product, as not only is it one of the biggest selling of the range, but a contender in the botanical health and beauty realm that has well and truly broken free from any niche constraints. In fact, it has never been in such constraints; the benefits and validity of the Aloe Vera plant have long been recognised on the broadest social levels. I remember my grandmother (by no means a classic follower of alternative treatments and therapies, or even natural remedies) collecting Aloe Vera leaves from her garden, to sooth my sunburn when I’d stayed out in the sun for longer than little Aaron was supposed to. Like Eucalyptus and Tea Tree, it is an ingredient that has been found tried and true (and hence, part of our culture) for as long as most of us can remember – and long before we were even born. The Greek scientists had declared the plant to be the universal panacea; the Egyptians declared it “The Plant of Immortality”; and the Native Americans knew it as “The Wand of Heaven”. That’s a fairly impressive history! But what is the secret of Aloe Vera, and for what problems can it be helpful? Foremost, this gel has been used as a wonderful treatment for skin irritations, wounds and disorders. The gel creates a protective shield over the skin, which then allows it to heal more quickly and guards against infection (a much needed attribute in the treatment of cuts and wounds). The plant originates from |
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Because the gel also contains Aloectin B, we now also know that the rapid healing attributed to Aloe Vera may largely be due to Aloectin B’s ability to stimulate and strengthen the immune system. It may also act as a pain inhibitor (why it is so popular for insect bites) and as a skin cooling agent (partly why my grandmother would grab herself a leaf from the garden, whenever I came back from the beach, looking like a lobster!). | |
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This is the standard world of Aloe Vera Gel, and the manner in which mums all over the country have used it for decades. But in recent times, it has evolved even further. It has become popular as a moisturising agent, and is now sold in many cosmetics products for this express purpose. The non-oily gel can penetrate the skin with impressive ease, and hydrate the skin. In particular, in combining the original uses of the gel, it is particularly powerful for the hydration of chapped or cracked skin, as the gel may also heal the severe symptoms and effects of this, as it re-hydrates. | |
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But the most fascinating breakthrough of late has been the discovery that Aloe Vera Gel can be used as a healing agent in oral care. The | |
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So, there’s never been a better time to try Aloe Vera Gel – especially, now that New Directions has achieved the world’s first certified organic version. This is the result of months of hard work by the New Directions scientific team, and the pride of their latest success is well deserved. Grandmas, after all, are never wrong. Aaron Darc for New Directions. | |
What Is Aromatherapy?
Special guest, Michael Livingstone, joins us for a fascinating beginner’s guide to the wonderful world of aromatherapy…
In the 1920’s, French chemist, René Maurice Gattefossé, was in his science laboratory where he explored and perfected perfumes. During an experiment, Rene accidentally set fire to his arm, and in a panic, thrust his arm into a vat of the nearest cold liquid he could find. That liquid happened to be Lavender Oil, and to Rene’s surprise, the pain relief he instantly experienced went far beyond the simple soothing of the cold temperature of the oil. He realized that, somehow, this oil had actively reduced his pain; then later, to even greater surprise, found that not only did his arm heal much quicker than such wounds would normally take, but that it had healed with very little scarring. The wonderful world of Aromatherapy was born!
In a nutshell, we may use the term, Aromatherapy, to describe the using of volatile liquid plant materials (Essential Oils) and various other scented components and extracts of plants to cause changes to a person’s mental or physical state. These oils can be used in a variety of ways; each oil singled out as having specific affects that can reach beyond merely the personal association and appreciation of a particular smell to an individual. Some of these may be seen as directly affecting the physical (such as the use of essential oils as an antibacterial or antifungal agent), or dealing with the psychological (where oils are said to affect moods and states of mind).
Like any alternative treatment, Aromatherapy has had its fair share of debate. However, many falsely believe that Aromatherapy has been shown to be ineffective. This is not true. Firstly, the world of olfactory science and psychology (smell and the human brain and body) is still, in comparison to our knowledge of other areas of the human system, a mysterious world – even to modern science. Secondly, because of there being no economic incentives driving research into the area (in a modern era where science and medicine is increasingly a political monopoly of the major pharmaceutical industries), there has been little empirical scrutiny to make any such conclusion either way; and so, whilst it is true, in some regards, to say that contemporary empirical science has not validated aromatherapy, it has by no means invalidated it, either. In fact, the only (minimal) research that has included aromatherapy, has not been able to discount its effects, and occasionally verify them. The antifungal properties of some Essential Oils have been successfully tested; and one study on various treatments of cancer patients suggested that aromatherapy had indeed helped the patients in the easing of stress and depression, with a distinct easing of tension and discontent amongst those patients treated with Essential Oils.
Science and medicine is also largely an evolving cultural phenomenon, and attitudes on various practices often differ, from country to country. In contrast to America and Australia, in France (the nation of its origins), aromatherapy is a regulated, credited form of practice in mainstream medicine (where the testing that has occurred, not too surprisingly, has been carried out); many doctors using aromatherapy as part of their prescribed treatments, and some of the Essential Oils available only on a prescription-only basis. In particular, it is used for its anti-septic, antiviral, antifungal and antibacterial power; physicians using what’s known as an Aromatogram (a method of testing sample tissue in various oils) to decipher which aromatherapy combination is appropriate for the complaint.
So, how does it work? The nose eventually links to the brain by Olfactory Cells, which sit beneath the brain in the ceiling of the nasal cavity. It is through these cells that smell is transmitted and perceived. These cells, based on the properties of the smell they receive, send electrical impulses to the brain, where the smell is then “known” by a part of the brain called the Cerebral Cortex. Aromatherapy is essentially the theory that the molecular properties received by these cells, found in Essential Oils and other aromatherapy substances, cause powerful changes in the brain and (often, extending to) the body. These impulses may not affect the body directly, but may affect various systems in the brain that control elements of the body (such as the immune system, digestion or blood pressure).
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There is also a strong psychological connection between smells and what we associate with them; however, because aromatherapy oils have similar affects on everybody, personal association may happily play a role in the popularity of aromatherapy, but it is not, by definition, what aromatherapy “is”. Rather, it is what aromatherapy is (technically speaking) “not”, because the term, aromatherapy, is concerned with the objective, scientific effects of the oils upon the human mind and body, and not the (subjective) power of psychological association. An aromatherapist chooses the oils he or she will use to treat various complaints and needs based on this objective view of what the oil combinations do to the human body from an objective, and not based on any subjective connection the patient has with a scent. Despite the general notion that aromatherapy is an “alternative” treatment and lifestyle, many fundamentals and ideas of aromatherapy have already been a part of most of our lives! |
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Some of the most popular and easily recognizable forms of aromatherapy include: the use of Peppermint for digestive problems; the use of Sandalwood for depression, anxiety and nervous tension; and the use of Lavender for headaches, insomnia, aches, pains and (of course, since this is where aromatherapy started) burns. However, probably the most widespread and mainstream use of aromatherapy is in fact so common, most people have used this at one time in their lives, without even realizing what they were trying is aromatherapy! The next time somebody tells you they have never tried aromatherapy or don’t believe in its powers, ask them if they’ve ever used Tea-Tree and Eucalyptus oil for a cold or flu.
There are three main ways to use aromatherapy oils. They can be massaged into the skin, vaporized in a bath, or burnt in an oil burner. They are always very strong concentrates, and require only a few drops at a time. To be massaged into the skin, they must be diluted – generally, in what is commonly referred to as a “carrier oil”, such as any cold pressed vegetable oil (for massage), or in a non-mineral unscented cream base (for more cosmetic-oriented use).
There are many ways to enjoy and utilize the world of aromatherapy oils, and each individual will approach it differently. Remember: there is no right or wrong way, and whatever enjoyment you take from the oils, for whatever purpose, is entirely up to you! Some use the oils from a medical perspective. Some like to use the oils to stimulate them mentally, aid with sleep or to relieve stress. Many people use the oils as a deodorizer or to create aromatic ambience, without any connection to what the medical or psychological properties of the oil are considered to be. And with the advent of do-it-yourself cosmetics, the oils have taken on a new life as ingredients to be mixed in cosmetics, whether for their scent or affective properties (such as moisturizing, etc). As we continue to look for natural alternatives in a modern and overly-synthetic world in the midst of environmental crisis, the wondrous arena of aromatherapy is experiencing a timely revival. Many people are searching for ways to explore nature and for new secrets of medicine and the mind; and are finding that, the whole time, the answers were right under their noses.
Michael Livingstone for New Directions
Essential Information
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| A Definition of an Essential Oil: An essential oil is a powerful, concentrated substance that is extracted from certain species of flowers, fruits, grasses, leaves, roots and trees. It is “the heart and soul of the plant. It is the essence that deters bugs from eating the plant. It is the fragrant aromatic heart of the plant that attracts bees and pollinating insects. It is the chemical components contained in the tiny plant cells that are liberated during the extraction process”. Aromatherapy for the Beauty Therapist by Valerie Ann Worwood | |
| A Brief History Essential oils have been used by man for thousands of years in one form or another. Their effectiveness has been well documented by healers and shamans throughout history in all cultures. Herbs which contain essential oils are added to our cooking and impart valuable medicinal properties. Making our Christmas cake or pudding just wouldn’t be the same without the peel of lemon & orange, which contain that help to preserve, flavour and add aroma. The Egyptians had a highly advanced civilisation that recognised the importance of these extracts for health and beauty. They used them in everyday life and placed great value on them. They also used them to keep their skin supple in the hot, dry environment by adding base oils such as sweet almond and olive oil. In the reign of Rameses, the monument builders even went on strike because, as they wrote, “we have no ointment”. Hippocrates, the father of medicine, said that “the way to health is to have an aromatic bath and scented massage every day”. Why is it that our doctors of today have very little or no knowledge of Hippocrates’ thoughts on the use of essential oils ? Famous for his prophecies is Michel de Nostredame (Nostradamus). But did you know that he spent most of his young years from the year 1521 to the year 1529 constantly on the move across various lands and countries to hear and find out the source and origin of plants? His book The Cosmetics Manual was written in 1555 in which he says of observing various women “during my stays in many countries, even those where the women because of the swiftly passing years contrived secretly and by means of a subtle skill to hide and conceal the principal part of the body, namely the head, in order to show clear evidence that substances applied to the face have succeeded in deceiving the eyes of onlookers.” The word “aromatherapy” comes from the title of a book, Aromatherapie, written by a French chemist and perfumer, Rene Maurice Gattefosse, and published in 1937. His story is often relayed, and began in July 1910 with an accident at work: “In my personal experience, after a laboratory explosion covered me with burning substances which I extinguished by rolling on a grassy lawn, both my hands were covered with a rapidly developing gas gangrene. Just one rinse with lavender essence stopped ‘the gasification of the tissue”. Gattefosse was so impressed by the fact that lavender essential oils could effectively deal with this very serious condition, he started to investigate the chemical and healing properties of essential oils. He also drew on the experience of doctors using essential oils at the time, including those who had great success in healing soldiers’ wounds during the First World War. He found they also had a significant role in the field of dermatology, and after carrying out research in his own laboratory in the therapeutic action of essential oils on the skin, he published Beauty Products in 1936, and Physiological Aethetics in 1938. Another pioneer of using essential oils for beauty was Marguerite Maury, a French women who specialised in her salons with using essential oils for rejuvenation and revitalisation, combining them with beauty therapy techniques. An essential oil is any concentrated, hydrophobic liquid containing volatile aroma compounds from plants. They are also known as volatile or ethereal oils, or simply as the "oil of" the plant material from which they were extracted, such as oil of clove. The term essential indicates that the oil carries distinctive scent (essence) of the plant, not that it is an especially important or fundamental substance. Essential oils do not as a group need to have any specific chemical properties in common, beyond conveying characteristic fragrances. They may not necessarily all have strong odours and are not to be confused with essential fatty acids. Essential oils are generally extracted by distillation. Other processes include expression, or solvent extraction. They are used in perfumes and cosmetics, for flavouring food and drink, and for scenting incense and household cleaning products. Various essential oils have been used medicinally at different periods in history. Medical applications proposed by those who sell medicinal oils vary from skin treatments to remedies for cancer, and are often based on historical use of these oils for these purposes. Such claims are now subject to regulation in most countries, and have grown correspondingly more vague, to stay within these regulations. Interest in essential oils has revived in recent decades, with the popularity of aromatherapy, a branch of medicine that has been used for thousands of years, which claims that the specific aromas carried by essential oils have curative effects. Oils are volatilized or diluted in carrier oil and used in massage, or burned as incense. Aromatic Sources - Plant Sources Plants have long been used in perfumery as a source of essential oils and aroma compounds. These aromatics are usually secondary metabolites produced by plants as protection against herbivores, infections, as well as to attract pollinators. Plants are by far the largest source of fragrant compounds used in perfumery. The sources of these compounds may be derived from various parts of a plant. A plant can offer more than one source of aromatics, for instance the aerial portions and seeds of coriander have remarkably different odors from each other. Orange leaves, blossoms, and fruit zest are the respective sources of petitgrain, neroli, and orange oils. Bark: Commonly used barks includes cinnamon and cascarilla. The fragrant oil in sassafras root bark is also used either directly or purified for its main constituent, safrole, which is used in the synthesis of other fragrant compounds such as helional. Flowers and Blossoms: Undoubtedly the largest source of aromatics. Includes the flowers of several species of rose and jasmine, as well as osmanthus, mimosa, tuberose, as well as the blossoms of citrus and ylang-ylang trees. Although not traditionally thought of as a flower, the unopened flower buds of the clove are also commonly used. Orchid flowers are not commercially used to produce essential oils or absolutes, except in the case of vanilla, an orchid, which must be pollinated first and made into seed pods before use in perfumery. | |
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Fruits: Fresh fruits such as apples, strawberries and cherries unfortunately do not yield the expected odors when extracted; if such fragrance notes are found in a perfume, they are synthetic. Notable exceptions include litsea cubeba, vanilla and juniperberry. The most commonly used fruits yield their aromatics from the rind; they include citrus such as oranges, lemons, limes and grapefruit. Leaves and Twigs: Commonly used for perfumery are eucalyptus, tea tree, lavender leaf, patchouli, sage, violets, rosemary and citrus leaves. Sometimes leaves are valued for the "green" smell they bring to perfumes, examples of this include hay and tomato leaf Resins: Valued since antiquity, resins have been widely used in incense and perfumery. Highly fragrant and antiseptic resins and resin-containing perfumes have been used by many cultures as medicines for a large variety of ailments. Commonly used resins in perfumery include labdanum, frankincense/olibanum, myrrh, Peru Balsam, Gum Benzoin. Pine and fir resins are a particularly valued source of terpenes used in theorganic synthesis of many other synthetic or naturally occurring aromatic compounds. Some of what is called amber and copal in perfumery today is the resinous secretion of fossil conifers. |
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Roots, Rhizomes and Bulbs: Commonly used terrestrial portions in perfumery include iris rhizomes, vertiver roots, various rhizomes of the ginger family. Seeds: Commonly used seeds include pepper, tonka bean, coriander, caraway, cocoa, nutmeg, mace, cardamon and anise. Woods: Highly important in providing the base notes to a perfume, wood oils and distillates are indispensable in perfumery. Commonly used woods include sandalwood, rosewood, agarwood, birch, cedar, juniper and pine. Obtaining natural odourants Before perfumes can be composed, the odorants used in various perfume compositions must first be obtained. Synthetic odorants are produced through organic synthesis and purified. Odorants from natural sources require the use of various methods to extract the aromatics from the raw materials. The results of the extraction are either essential oil, absolutes concretes, or butters, depending on the amount of waxes in the extracted product. All these techniques will, to a certain extent, distort the odor of the aromatic compounds obtained from the raw materials. This is due to the use of heat, harsh solvents, or through exposure to oxygen in the extraction process which will denature the aromatic compounds, which either change their odor character or renders them odorless. Maceration / Solvent Extraction: The most used and economically important technique for extracting aromatics in the modern perfume industry. Raw materials are submerged in a solvent that can dissolve the desired aromatic compounds. Maceration lasts anywhere from hours to months. Fragrant compounds for woody and fibrous plant materials are often obtained in this manner as are all aromatics from animal sources. The technique can also be used to extract odorants that are too volatile for distillation or easily denatured by heat. Commonly used solvents for maceration/solvent extraction include water, hexane, and dimethyl ether. The product of this process is called a "concrete". Also used are; Supercritical fluid extraction: A relatively new technique for extracting fragrant compounds from a raw material, which often employs Supercritical CO2. Due to the low heat of process and the relatively nonreactive solvent used in the extraction, the fragrant compounds derived often closely resemble the original odor of the raw material. Ethanol extraction: A type of solvent extraction used to extract fragrant compounds directly from dry raw materials, as well as the impure oily compounds materials resulting from solvent extraction or enfleurage. Ethanol extraction is not used to extract fragrance from fresh plant materials since these contain large quantities of water, which will also be extracted into the ethanol. Glycols or Glycerine may be substituted for Ethanol. The problem is that the dry extract is not strictly an extract but a chopped tea or powdered, micronised or ground powder from the actual plant part. The liquid extracts are where you take the powder and extract the active components by various techniques. However this is not simple as the solvent used not only affects the concentration of the extract but also the extent of the extract achieved. That is; by increasing organic solvents you will achieve a different extract than if you only use water or put another way - the solvent type determines what component you will extract - that is, the more polar solvent will extract mainly polar components while the non-polar solvents will mainly extract non-polar components, so you have to determine what active component of the powder you want before you select the solvent to use. Also if you use more solvent then you will extract more than if you use a small amount of solvent. My suggestion is that you start with a simple maceration technique where he allows the powder to be in contact with the solvent (probably a mixture of 50% Water and 50% Glycerine (a Hydroglyceric extract) or 33% Water ; 33% Ethanol and 33% Glycerine) for at least 48 hours (stirring occasionally) and then filtering the mixture, using the filtrate as the active in the product. Once you have filtered the mixture a further extraction of the original powder by the solvent mix will tell if there is still more to be extracted, hence the procedure should be repeated, until the filtrate is clear. If the amount of filtrate is too much then this can be concentrated down by evaporation. Another technique is to use a concentrated solvent/powder mixture directly in the product but this depends on if the formulation can withstand particulate matter (sedimentation or flocculation may occur) and if the stability of the formulation can withstand the amount of solvent used. The advantage of this technique is that it provides a "holistic" approach in that all the actives will be transferred to the finished product. Distillation: A common technique for obtaining aromatic compounds from plants, such as eucalyptus leaves, orange blossoms and roses. The raw material is heated and the fragrant compounds are re-collected through condensation of the distilled vapour. Steam distillation: Steam from boiling water is passed through the raw material, which drives out their volatile fragrant compounds. The condensate from distillation are settled in a Florentine Flask. This allows for the easy separation of the fragrant oils from the water. The water collected from the condensate, which retains some of the fragrant compounds and oils from the raw material is called hydrosol and sometimes sold. Note; a hydrosol should not be confused with a floral water which is an essential oils dissolved into water by using a solubiliser. This is most commonly used for fresh plant materials such as flowers, leaves and stems. Dry/destructive distillation: The raw materials are directly heated in a still without a carrier solvent such as water. Fragrant compounds that are released from the raw material by the high heat often undergo anhydrous pyrolysis, which results in the formation of different fragrant compounds, and thus different fragrant notes. This method is used to obtain fragrant compounds from fossil amber and fragrant woods where an intentional "burned" or "toasted" odor is desired. Expression (sometimes called Cold Pressing): Raw material is squeezed or compressed and the oils are collected. Of all raw materials, only the fragrant oils from the peels of fruits in the citrus family are extracted in this manner since the oil is present in large enough quantities as to make this extraction method economically feasible. Enfleurage: Absorption of aroma materials into wax and then extracting the odorous oil with ethyl alcohol. Extraction by enfleurage was commonly used when distillation was not possible due to the fact that some fragrant compounds denature through high heat. This technique is not commonly used in the present day industry due to its prohibitive cost and the existence of more efficient and effective extraction methods. Fragrant extracts Although fragrant extracts are known to the general public as the generic term “essential oils”, a more specific language is used in the fragrance industry to describe the source, purity, and technique used to obtain a particular fragrant extract. Of these extracts only absolutes, essential oils , and tinctures are directly used to formulate perfumes. Absolute: a highly concentrated viscous semi-solid or solid perfume material, usually purified from a pomade or concrete by soaking them in ethanol. By using a slightly hydrophilic compound such as ethanol, most of the fragrant compounds from the waxy source materials can be extracted without dissolving any of the fragrant less waxy molecules. Absolutes are usually found in the form of an oily liquid. Concrete: Fragrant materials that have been extracted from raw materials through solvent extraction using volatile hydrocarbons. Concretes usually contain a large amount of wax due to the ease in which the solvents dissolve various hydrophobic compounds. As such concretes are usually further purified through distillation or ethanol based solvent extraction. Concretes are typically either waxy or resinous solids or thick oily liquids. Essential Oil: Fragrant materials that have been extracted from a source material directly through distillation or expression and obtained in the form of an oily liquid. An essential oils is a volatile and aromatic liquid which generally constitutes the odorous principles of the plant. It is obtained by a process of expression or distillation from a single botanical form or species, even from a specific part of the herb (eg flower, bark, root or whole plant).Oils extracted through expression are sometimes called expression oil. Pomade: A fragrant mass of solid fat created from the enfleurage process, in which odorous compounds in raw materials are adsorbed into animal fats. Pomades are found in the form of an oily and sticky solid. Tincture: Fragrant materials produced by directly soaking and infusing raw materials in ethanol. Tinctures are typically thin liquids. Hydrosol: The hydrosol is produced from the distillation process and is the water distilled fraction containing volatile water soluble components from the herb or plant. Floral Water: contain a very small amount of essential oils and water soluble extracts from the plant dissolved into water. A floral water usually also contains a solubiliser to aid in clarification. Linen Water:usually contain a very small amount of essential oils but no water soluble extracts from the plant. The floral water is produced from the distillation process and then further treatment to remove tannins and other components which may stain cloth. Decoction: a herbal preparation where the plant material (usually hard or woody) is boiled in water and reduced to make a concentrated extract. Infusion:a herbal remedy prepared by steeping the plant material in Water. Rectification: the process of redistilling applied to essential oils to rid them of certain constituents. Oleoresin: a less volatile but aromatic liquid which generally constitutes the odorous principles of the plant. It is obtained by a process of liquid extraction from a single botanical form or species, even from a specific part of the herb, usually the bark, root or whole plant. It is a dark molasses type mass and is often used as a concentrated form (eg as in Vanilla oleoresin) or a fixative (eg as in Benzoin resin). Resinoid crystals are the materials from sap (trees) and extracts (usually from bark) that are solid, substantive to skin and difficult to remove from skin. These properties make them ideal for perfume fixatives (the base that dissolves the fragrance and holds them on skin for extended periods). Ambergris is another type although animal derived (non-harmful in that it is the regurgitation of undigested shell that is from the whale's diet). 1. Some resinoids will dissolve directly into the essential oils , given time. This depends on the type of resinoid and the type of essential oils . Gentle warming will assist but if too hot then the essential oils will lose its effect. 2. Use heat to melt the resinoid, usually in the presence of a small amount of carrier oil (enough to produce a viscous liquid). The essential oils is then dissolved in this mix (preferably when cooler ie below 40degC). 3. Dissolve the Resinoid in Alcohol - add the essential oils - then dry until only the resinoid/perfume mix remains. Note; if used at high levels in the product they may have a tendency to make the final product thicker and possibly a yellow/amber colour. They might also give the skin a waxy after feel. Hence the level must be carefully determined beforehand. | |
| The Chemistry of Essential Oils When identifying which naturally occurring chemicals essential oils are made up from it is important to note that there are over 30,000 known aromatic molecules which just as many that are as yet unidentified. An essential oil can be made of between 100 and 300 components. Each has its own aroma and potential therapeutic action. The main classifications are shown in the following chart. Aromatic Chemical Groups and Their Actions
How Essential Oils Work on the Body The ways in which essential oil molecules enter the body and have an effect are: by inhalation, by trans-dermal absorption and by ingestion. Essential oils increase the blood supply to the tissues, which helps the proliferation of cells and regeneration, increasing oxygenation and lymphatic flow. By increasing the micro-circulation in the skin and by strengthening the capillaries essential oils, such as cypress, lemon, rose and geranium, are useful for the treatment of spider veins and varicose veins. Essential oils are very complex and contain many trace compounds – very small components, some of which may not even have been analysed scientifically. It is the combination of all its ingredients that make an essential oil what it is. Extracting one component generally won’t work effectively without the other trace elements to provide balance. Also the better the quality of the essential oil, the more effective it will be in treatment. Essential oils work well in cosmetics and beauty treatments as anti-ageing agents because their properties work to stimulate skin cells into reproducing at a faster rate, and by protecting the body against free radicals (believed by many scientists to be the greatest cause of ageing). Skin that has been treated with essential oils becomes stronger, healthier and more even in appearance. The improved circulation, which aids oxygenation, increases the rate at which nutrients are fed into the dermis. The production of the skin’s sebum is influenced by hormones. Certain essential oils balance the rate which sebum is produced by the sebaceous glands, thereby encouraging healthy skin. As certain essential oils may influence the hormonal level it makes sense to include these as a treatment when dealing with skin problems that are caused by hormonal imbalances. Others are anti-inflammatory and calm sensitive and damaged skin. Some such as fennel contain phyto-hormones which create equilibrium within our endocrine system and can be used in the management of menopausal symptoms such as hot flushes. All essential oils are anti-bacterial in nature, some more than others. Oregano, for example, is twenty-six times more powerful as an antiseptic than phenol, which is the active ingredient in many commercial cleaning products. It has been shown that their antiseptic properties cause damage to a biological membrane due to their lipophilic properties (their solubility in the phospholipid bi-layer of cell membranes). According to Knobloch, the oxygen intake was completely inhibited by functional groups such as phenols (see Oregano above). Yet in correct dosages and applications they are completely safe when used on the human body. They are probiotic or ‘for life’ as opposed to antibiotics which are ‘against’ life. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Thermal Imaging showing neck & shoulder area before and then | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Some such as lemongrass contain anti-viral properties. Dr. Penoel suggested a combination of essential oils applied topically. The essential oils alter the pH and the electrical resistance of the terrain in a way which is unfavourable to the viral organism. A combination of essential oils, well known to aromatherapists, is a combination of Tea Tree Oil, Pine Oil and Eucalyptus Oil with Lavender and Lemon Oils, has just been “discovered” by pharmaceutical chemists as a marvelous antiseptic, even effective against Golden Staph. a common infection in hospitals. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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How Essential Oils Effect Mood
Using essential oils topically allows their aroma to also be inhaled to a certain degree during a treatment as they are volatile – that is, they evaporate and move through the air. The nasal passages are an area of the body where the blood vessels are closest to the skin, allowing rapid absorption of the essential oil to its effective site, including the brain. The Salon, Spa or Clinic can affect the mood of clients by the use of essential oil atomizers (oil burners, incense sticks, electronic atomizers, etc.) to fill the air with a scent that can excite, calm, attract or any other mood. Clients often find that their overall well-being benefits as well as their looks. Today, aromatherapy is used in beauty and aesthetic treatments for relaxation, stress-relief, rejuvenation and revitalisation and treating skin conditions. Essential oils are found as ingredients in many beauty products, including face creams and lotions, face scrubs, masks, and toners, body lotions of all kinds, slimming treatments, sun tanning and protection products, and pedicure and manicure products. How to Use Essential Oils, Extracts and Natural Products? Inhalation Oil Burners, Atomised Sprays, Candles and Incense Sticks are the most common methods. Topical Massage Creams or Oils are an excellent method as they tend to have considerable time on the skin and not be washed off, two factors which will increase the effectiveness of any active component through the skin. Firstly the Cream or Oil is formed and the essential oils or extracts carefully blended in once the process has cooled to below 35oC. Higher temperatures than this may cause the degradation of sensitive components necessary for the complete action. The general usage levels are 7 to 25 drops in 25ml of oil or cream. It is possible to create your own aromatherapy creams, oils or other products, in your clinic, salon or spa as you can buy small quantities of ready made creams or oils, as well as the essential oils or extracts, from companies such as mine (New Directions Australia) and you can blend these yourself. Other means have also been employed such as via hair care or even the moisturizers, day creams, night creams, etc. used in daily skin care. The Importance of the Base or Carrier Oil There is a simple distinction between carrier oils and base oils. Carrier oils are chosen to carry the therapeutic essential oil molecules to where they are needed. They are not chosen for their beneficial properties. Base oils are chosen because they contain moisturising and emollient properties that have the ability to supply the skin with essential fatty acids and vitamins that have specific healing properties. This is especially important when the essential oils used are chosen for their anti-ageing properties such as in skin care products. Typical Carrier Oils are; Apricot Oil, Canola Oil, Castor Oil, Coconut Oil, Corn Oil, Cottonseed Oil, Jojoba Oil, Olive Oil, Palm Oil, Peach Oil, Safflower Oil, Sesame Oil, Soya Bean Oil, Sunflower Oil, plus the “non-vegetable” oils MCT and Paraffin or Mineral Oil. For those that may have heard my lecture last June on the Gold Coast I gave the description of treatments to Olive Oil vs Paraffin or Mineral Oil and asked which was more “natural”. I will include this again, in the Appendix, for those who have not seen it. Typical Base Oils are;
There are many different oils available but particularly good blends combines oils of Sweet Almond, Wheatgerm and Macadamia. or Avocado, Blackcurrant, Grapeseed and Evening Primrose. I have mentioned many times, the vitamins contained in natural extracts and oils as benefits to skin. Their confirmed actions are listed in Appendix 2, which unfortunately due to time constraints I cannot go into details here.
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Smells Like Happiness
Using the secrets of aromatherapy to combat stress and low mood.
Today, we live in what many theorists refer to as “The Medicated State”, where psychiatry and neuro-psychology (viewing depression and anxiety through the perspective of physical events in the brain that can be chemically manipulated) have increasingly ruled the day. This has been born from an emphasis in the evolution of science and technology on developing pharmaceutical drugs – something that has partly become popular because of economic factors, seen as a practical alternative to other forms of psychology that are costly in both time and money (such as therapy, which is economically unviable for many people), as well as the power of pharmaceutical companies. But as numbers of those feeling the pinch of stress and emotional discontent rise, many feel as if the pharmaceutical option is too hasty and extreme for the levels of stress and discontent they are dealing with (if these are only mild cases and perhaps do not qualify as a clinical “mental health” problem). This has led many to look for natural solutions to a very modern problem.
There are many natural ways to combat stress and to actively control mood. There is no single solution, and even modern pharmaceuticals used in treating clinical depression and anxiety disorders must concede an element of subjectivity and individualism of psychological make up – even the most popular psycho-active drugs have differing effects on people, and can work for some and not others. No one situation is the same, nor the mind that is affected by it. But for many who have turned to natural solutions to combat mild stress and unhappiness, aromatherapy has provided a valuable tool, alongside exercise and a healthy diet.
If you find yourself suffering extreme states of anxiety and depression, it is important to seek psychological or medical advice. But there are various ways that secrets of aroma-therapists can be useful for mild and every-day stress and low mood; and even in conjunction with other treatments, it can provide one more method of finding a solution that works for you. Firstly, the oils may directly affect mood levels. For feelings of unhappiness or low mood, it is a good idea to choose those which have been attributed to an uplifting affect, which may alter both mood and energy levels. These include:
- Bergamot
- Cypress
- Lemongrass
- Rosemary
- Sage
Those who suffer from stress will battle increased neural activity, as our problems literally keep us awake. This can ironically lessen our ability to deal with the problems causing this stress, as we miss out on the restorative powers of deep sleep and suffer the physical and psychological consequences (increasing the feeling of being “burnt out”, or physically and emotionally pushed beyond one’s limits). Those who are experiencing a period of unhappiness and low mood may also have interrupted sleep patterns because serotonin - the natural brain chemical connected to our mood and feelings of wellbeing - plays a role in the regulation of sleep. When we are feeling low or unhappy, our serotonin levels have dropped; this shortage can in turn cause erratic sleep or insomnia.
Many aromatherapy treatments have long been heralded as a natural way of inducing states of calm and (therefore) sleep; so, whilst these oils do not directly address the chemical levels in the brain (as do anti-depressants and psycho-active medication), they can help other elements of our life that do (such as sleep). And, of course, there’s nothing more powerful to help us deal with our stress than to spend time relaxing and gathering ourselves in a state of calm, with which to approach our busy lives. Oils for this include:
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Beyond this, it is important to remember that smell is also a phenomenon that works emotionally on the basis of personal association. While these listed oils are thought to have properties that work on a more direct physical level, never underestimate the power of scent in terms of the connections we give them. A past client of mine (during my time as a counselor and psychotherapist) once used raspberry oil because it reminded her of the raspberry bushes that lined her front porch where she would watch the sun set as a child. This subconscious association facilitated a powerful regression that gave her feelings of safety and wellbeing during trying times. Even though raspberry oil may not classically be seen as having any emotionally affective properties, her mind had created a powerful association that was entirely her own, and entirely effective.
What’s more is that she had arrived at this realisation after exploring her attraction to anything raspberry – without her understanding the origins. Like many people, she had never given the origins of her personal penchants much thought. But when I asked her why she found herself drawn to the scent of raspberry whenever she was down (suggesting an obvious unconscious mechanism to create a happier space) she remembered her fond memories on the front porch of her parents’ farm. She soon purchased some raspberry essential oil, and to this day, I imagine uses it to comfort her whenever she feels overwhelmed by the day-to-day trials of her life.
So, never underestimate the power of smell! Referred to as Olfactory Psychology, this is an area still very much being explored by modern science, and it is generally conceded that the realm of scent is indeed a powerful – but complicated – world. Whilst depression and anxiety can – at the extreme end – be a largely physical phenomenon, for most of us, the stress and unhappiness we encounter and experience is still predominantly a problem that is psychodynamic (that is, connected to events in our lives and the context within which we deal with them), and each has a complex relationship between their psychological make-up, what has happened in their lives, what is currently happening and their ability to react and deal with the things that can cause us stress or bring our mood down. Scent and, most importantly, our associations with scent, plays a vital role in this, alongside a myriad of other components. It is a powerful and unique concept to remember when approaching the world of Aromatherapy – a world that may run even deeper than many think. Aaron Darc for New Directions.
